AMSTERDAM. “The Don’t Stop Now: Fashion Photography Next exhibition” è il titolo della mostra dedicata al mondo della moda che rimarrà esposta al Foam fino al prossimo 7 settembre. L’esposizione, curata in collaborazione con Maddalena Keaney, parte dal fatto che i fotografi di moda sono in primo luogo fotografi. La mostra offre, dunque, una piattaforma per una nuova generazione di image-maker che lavorano con la moda evidenziando la diversità degli approcci e l’abbondanza di metodi fotografici, tra tecniche analogiche e camera oscura fino al carattere artificiale della manipolazione o ai confini della nuova estetica digitale.
L’emergere di zines, editori sotterranei indipendenti, e del self-publishing ha poi offerto una gradita alternativa alla posizione di monopolio a lungo tenuto dalle principali case editrici. Questo ha creato una sorta di circuito sotterraneo che offre più spazio alla sperimentazione. Le opportunità offerte dal self-publishing e dai social media sono per molti dei fotografi un importante strumento di promozione del proprio lavoro senza mediazioni da gallerie, enti o istituzioni stabilite.
Mostra collettiva con Brendan Baker & Daniel Evans, Mel Bles, Charlie Engman, Jonathan Hallam, Jamie Hawkesworth, Alice Hawkins, Erik Madigan Heck, Julia Hetta, Samuel Hodge, Axel Hoedt, Laetitia Hotte, Daniel Jackson, Immo Klink, Tyrone Lebon, Ciad Moore, Laetitia Negre, Hanna Putz, Daniel Riera, Robi Rodriguez, Daniel Sannwald, Clare Shilland, Saga Sig, Jacob Sutton, Philippe Vogelenzang, Chardchakaj Waikawee (Air), Tung Walsh, Harley Weir e Ruvan Wijesooriya.
English version. The Don’t Stop Now: Fashion Photography Next exhibition, organised by Foam in collaboration with guest curator Magdalene Keaney, starts out from the fact that fashion photographers are first and foremost photographers. The exhibition provides a platform for a new generation of image-makers who work with fashion. Don’t Stop Now: Fashion Photography Next offers an exciting glimpse into the wealth of contemporary practices in fashion photography, resulting in a dynamic, colourful and multi-faceted presentation.
Variety and hybrid are two major characterisations of the work of these young photographers. The exhibition shows the diversity in approaches, as well as the abundance of photographic methods. Developments in fashion photography proceed for the most part equally as those in other fields of photography. Contrary to the possibilities presented by digital technology, many emerging photographers turn to analogue techniques and process their own images in the darkroom. Some photographers are particularly interested in the artificial character of the fashion image and are pushing the limits of the medium via manual interventions and manipulation; others, on the contrary, investigate the possibilities offered by the digital aesthetic. To do so, various forms are juxtaposed and combined, such as studio and location shots, and genres such as still life, landscape, portrait and abstraction. Collage, sculpture, installations and performance also naturally assume a place in their method of working. The most important rule is that there are in fact no rules.
The emergence of zines, independent underground publishers and self-publishing has offered a welcome alternative to the monopoly position long held by the major publishing companies. This has created a kind of underground circuit that allows more space for experimentation, existing parallel to the world of the established global fashion industry. The opportunities presented by self-publishing and social media are for many of the photographers discussed here a major instrument of promoting their own work without mediation by galleries, agencies or established institutions.
The photographers who are featured here are considered as a new generation making groundbreaking work and following in the footsteps of famed colleagues of the established order, such as Mario Testino, Steven Meisel, Jürgen Teller or Inez & Vinoodh. Concurrent with this exhibition, a book by Magdalene Keaney with the same title will be published by Thames & Hudson. Don’t Stop Now: Fashion Photography Next is intended as a positive statement regarding the work of the young photographers included in the exhibition and the book, both now and in the future.
Group exhibition with Brendan Baker & Daniel Evans, Mel Bles, Charlie Engman, Jonathan Hallam, Jamie Hawkesworth, Alice Hawkins, Erik Madigan Heck, Julia Hetta, Samuel Hodge, Axel Hoedt, Laetitia Hotte, Daniel Jackson, Immo Klink, Tyrone Lebon, Chad Moore, Laetitia Negre, Hanna Putz, Daniel Riera, Robi Rodriguez, Daniel Sannwald, Clare Shilland, Saga Sig, Jacob Sutton, Philippe Vogelenzang, Chardchakaj Waikawee (Air), Tung Walsh, Harley Weir and Ruvan Wijesooriya.